With the sad closure of Al Frash in the Balti Triangle, I decided to seek out a  ‘proper’ balti further afield. Last time I’d been to the Balti Bazaar in Stirchley was over 20 years ago so here’s my thoughts after the visit. Staff were friendly and attentive  and although the poppadoms and dips were excellent (often a good test of what is to come), I probably didn’t need to order given the amounts left on the floor and not cleared up after a previous diner!

My starter of pepper stuffed with mince was excellent but my wife’s tikka was disappointingly under spiced. This set a bit of a trend as the main courses served up in the traditional bowls were plentiful with good portions of quality meat but again the spices were underwhelming. It’s a shame because my balti bazaari special was a great mix of chicken, egg, aubergine and mushrooms but whilst described on the menu as ‘very spicy’ was fairly innocuous in that department. The accompanying garlic and cheese naan was actual cooked english cheese not paneer so it was more like a pizza … in fairness my fault perhaps for choosing it rather than the restaurant’s.

Overall a reasonable meal but it could have been so much better … and guys … keep that carpet clean!

It was with real sadness that I learned that legendary balti restaurant Al Frash; with its iconic butterfly logo, has closed its doors for the final time.  A restaurant with an enviable reputation, it was lauded by the quality press food critics and visited by celebrities like Sir Terry Wogan.  From its legendary Balti Aphrodisiac to its superb range of baltis cooked in organic coconut oil, it will be sorely missed. Rumour has it that top balti chef Mo Azad will pop up somewhere else in the future … let’s hope so for the sake of the Birmingham Balti.

A farewell message from the Al Frash twitter account.

Here’s a few top baltis in which to indulge in a bit of naan dipping …

• Balti Chicken and Spinach at Shababs, Ladypool Road, the Hairy Bikers‘ favourite balti and also the top choice of regular customers
• Balti Lamb and Aubergine in organic coconut oil at Al Frash, Ladypool Road, a restaurant featured in the Guardian and other quality newspapers
• Balti Garlic Chilli Chicken at Adil , Stoney Lane where the Balti phenomenon first appeared in the seventies
• Balti Chicken Korma at Shahi Nan Kebab House, Stratford Road … not the mildest but the chef used to be in the Pakistani Navy and knows his onions
• Balti Lassawalla Gosht at Royal Watan, Pershore Road … unusually an on the bone balti but none the worse for that. Once the fave haunt for the BBC Pebble Mill glitterati

According to the Mail, two of the Jewellery Quarter’s curry giants are facing off … in the one corner Jabba Khan from Lasan and in the other Aktar Islam from Opheems. The latter accusing the former of plagiarism. Now, there’s no denying that Lasan won the Gordon Ramsey ‘Best Local Restaurant’ award but, of course the reason for that was Aktar who was chef at the time and has since left the kitchen. So to live off that award seems misleading to say the least. However, it all seems to be a bit of a storm in a pickle tray bearing in mind Aktar’s restaurant has earned its own accolades and doesn’t need to rely on an award which is now almost in the ancient history category.

In the meantime both of them need to tone down their authenticity claim because excellent though their food may be, it’s food that’s been tweaked for today’s palate and is unlikely to exactly replicate exactly what was served up at a Maharajah’s dinner table. Both serve excellent food but I wish they would stop banging on about who’s authentic because that’s  a culinary red herring … or should that be a red snapper?

I get a regular email from the BBC Good Food Magazine and this week, it was all about ‘cracking curries to make tonight’ with a sub plot of ’32 healthy curries everyone will love!’ This includes a ‘Healthier Chicken Balti‘ accompanied by a picture of the ‘balti’ in a shining silver bowl and a suggested 30 minute cooking time … the BBC obviously haven’t got a culinary clue. Bizarrely, there are pictures of what looks like genuine pressed steel Balti pans but for non Balti recipes.

Guys … do your research!’

Just because my last request as a condemned man would be a genuine Birmingham balti, that doesn’t mean that I don’t like both a spot of fine dining and other types of dishes and styles of cooking from the Indian sub continent.

Opheem is Aktar Islam’s latest project and given the high standards he set at both Lasan and in media appearances, a visit was eagerly anticipated. Right from our arrival , the service was excellent from the team of knowledgable waiters and the experienced sommelier through to the pastry chef who came to our table rightly proud of his celeriac ice cream based amuse bouche. I suppose if I had one complaint it was the usual fine dining custom of topping up our wine glasses continually..and a couple of bottles of quaffable Primitivo Red was ample in our cases!

Starters were shared including a trio of soft shell crab which included a tempura style presentation, shredded crab and a delicate crab cake. The other dish was a scallop and lentil based offering which was tasty and well presented although my only gripe was that it was both described and served in the singular and at eleven quid plus seemed a trifle pricey.

The main courses lived up to every expectation with my spiced mallard duck breast and accompanying leg confit beautifully matched … and with a daughter living in France I like to think I know my canard. Equally the excellent Goat Biryani made me wonder why the meat is so little seen on menus. The Biryani rice was extremely tasty with layers of rice and meat creating a great mix of flavours and was served up Moghul style sealed in an edible based casing … a first for us all but hopefully not the last. 

Afters didn’t disappoint with the Kaveri, a lavish mix of passion fruit and chocolate and the Shirkand which was sheep’s yoghourt with a spice winning combo of cardamom and liquorice. Incidentally, it would be churlish not to mention a procession of unusual and creative amuse bouches which were served along with a bread course of a quality that would kick the proverbial sand in the face of a ‘baguette du monde’, not least as it was accompanied by a moreish shredded lamb pathia.

Definitely there will be a return visit to a restaurant that does Birmingham’s fine dining scene proud although in the meantime it will be back to my weekly balti!

Definitely worth a visit is the Royal Watan in Selly Park which was once the haunt of the BBC Pebble Mill glitterati. 

It’s very smart inside without being over fussy and had a healthy number of diners even though it was only early Sunday evening. Without further ado I ordered the Lassawalla Gosht. It is apparently ‘Grandma’s old recipe’ and is one of a selection of family heritage dishes. Served up sizzling it had been cooked balti style although on the bone. Now to a chap of my age, baltis ‘on the bone’ are a bit like a dental version of Russian Roulette but the meat was fortunately a selection of substantial lamb chops languishing in a superbly rich and spicy sauce.

Served up sizzling it was accompanied by a fresh and doughy garlic naan … a combo to be recommended so fair play to Grandma and fair play to the Royal Watan that proves there’s still a few restaurants outside the Balti Triangle that do authentic baltis.

ROYAL WATAN, 602-4 PERSHORE ROAD, B29 7HQ.

TEL: 471-1713; BYO

In holiday in Funchal, Madeira, I had to have a curry fix after days of alternating steak with the local speciality of scabbard fish. Luckily, I chanced on a family run place where the young guy had recently taken over the restaurant. Its name ‘Himalaya’ betrayed its Nepalese roots although apart from the ubiquitous momos, the rest of the menu was typically anglo indian. Right from the crispy poppadoms and fabulous array of dips, through to the momo shaped chicken samosas, it was a great opener.

The following main courses didn’t disappoint with a chicken pasanda a real winner. However, I couldn’t resist having a ‘balti’ and what a flavoursome curry it was … but a balti it wasn’t (although I subsequently had a chat to the owner and chef about the real deal).

Mind you, fair play to him as the word ‘balti’ is urdhu for bucket and that’s exactly what it was served up in! This was a first for me in terms of presentation … albeit in a small and silver bucket! Incidentally, to finish, their home made pistachio ice cream was the best I’ve ever had. Balti or no balti … would I return? Undoubtedly … great food and really friendly service.

I recently popped into the Royal Watan in Selly Park which was once the haunt of the BBC Pebble Mill glitterati. 

It’s very smart inside without being over fussy and had a healthy number of diners even though it was only early Sunday evening. Without further ado I ordered the Lassawalla Gosht. It is apparently ‘Grandma’s old recipe’ and is one of a selection of family heritage dishes. Served up sizzling it had been cooked balti style although on the bone. Now to a chap of my age, baltis ‘on the bone’ are a bit like a dental version of Russian Roulette but the meat was fortunately a selection of substantial lamb chops languishing in a superbly rich and spicy sauce.

Served up sizzling it was accompanied by a fresh and doughy garlic naan … a combo to be recommended so fair play to Grandma and fair play to the Royal Watan that proves there’s still a few restaurants outside the Balti Triangle that do authentic baltis.

Recently aired was a programme called ‘the Curry Kid’ which featured a Bangladeshi dancer whose Dad owned a curry house in Brick Lane and who failed in his bid to hand it over to his son who had other plans. Poignant at times, it raised several issues that have and will affect the curry trade.  The horrific treatment of curry house staff by diners, particularly groups of lads. Interestingly, this was nailed as having happened in the eighties when probably that sort of behaviour had almost died out in Brum … maybe the London crowd are a bit more backward … or arrogant?     

The lack of interest of young Asian males to continue the curry ‘inheritance’… emphasised by an interview with a rapping ‘soon to be’ accountant! Therefore the  closure of many ‘traditional’ curry houses in areas like Brick Lane … ditto the Balti Triangle, of course.  Yet one new establishment set up by a Bangla woman gave hope despite the fact that her attempt to help advise a male restauranteur was met with something verging on contempt. She described them as an ‘old boys’ club and it seems unless, the old guard are willing to move with the times, more traditional places will close in the curry heartlands of Britain. However, the hope is that the new range of ‘street food’ outlets will take up the curry cudgel.