Just because my last request as a condemned man would be a genuine Birmingham balti, that doesn’t mean that I don’t like both a spot of fine dining and other types of dishes and styles of cooking from the Indian sub continent.

Opheem is Aktar Islam’s latest project and given the high standards he set at both Lasan and in media appearances, a visit was eagerly anticipated. Right from our arrival , the service was excellent from the team of knowledgable waiters and the experienced sommelier through to the pastry chef who came to our table rightly proud of his celeriac ice cream based amuse bouche. I suppose if I had one complaint it was the usual fine dining custom of topping up our wine glasses continually..and a couple of bottles of quaffable Primitivo Red was ample in our cases!

Starters were shared including a trio of soft shell crab which included a tempura style presentation, shredded crab and a delicate crab cake. The other dish was a scallop and lentil based offering which was tasty and well presented although my only gripe was that it was both described and served in the singular and at eleven quid plus seemed a trifle pricey.

The main courses lived up to every expectation with my spiced mallard duck breast and accompanying leg confit beautifully matched … and with a daughter living in France I like to think I know my canard. Equally the excellent Goat Biryani made me wonder why the meat is so little seen on menus. The Biryani rice was extremely tasty with layers of rice and meat creating a great mix of flavours and was served up Moghul style sealed in an edible based casing … a first for us all but hopefully not the last. 

Afters didn’t disappoint with the Kaveri, a lavish mix of passion fruit and chocolate and the Shirkand which was sheep’s yoghourt with a spice winning combo of cardamom and liquorice. Incidentally, it would be churlish not to mention a procession of unusual and creative amuse bouches which were served along with a bread course of a quality that would kick the proverbial sand in the face of a ‘baguette du monde’, not least as it was accompanied by a moreish shredded lamb pathia.

Definitely there will be a return visit to a restaurant that does Birmingham’s fine dining scene proud although in the meantime it will be back to my weekly balti!

Definitely worth a visit is the Royal Watan in Selly Park which was once the haunt of the BBC Pebble Mill glitterati. 

It’s very smart inside without being over fussy and had a healthy number of diners even though it was only early Sunday evening. Without further ado I ordered the Lassawalla Gosht. It is apparently ‘Grandma’s old recipe’ and is one of a selection of family heritage dishes. Served up sizzling it had been cooked balti style although on the bone. Now to a chap of my age, baltis ‘on the bone’ are a bit like a dental version of Russian Roulette but the meat was fortunately a selection of substantial lamb chops languishing in a superbly rich and spicy sauce.

Served up sizzling it was accompanied by a fresh and doughy garlic naan … a combo to be recommended so fair play to Grandma and fair play to the Royal Watan that proves there’s still a few restaurants outside the Balti Triangle that do authentic baltis.

ROYAL WATAN, 602-4 PERSHORE ROAD, B29 7HQ.

TEL: 471-1713; BYO

In holiday in Funchal, Madeira, I had to have a curry fix after days of alternating steak with the local speciality of scabbard fish. Luckily, I chanced on a family run place where the young guy had recently taken over the restaurant. Its name ‘Himalaya’ betrayed its Nepalese roots although apart from the ubiquitous momos, the rest of the menu was typically anglo indian. Right from the crispy poppadoms and fabulous array of dips, through to the momo shaped chicken samosas, it was a great opener.

The following main courses didn’t disappoint with a chicken pasanda a real winner. However, I couldn’t resist having a ‘balti’ and what a flavoursome curry it was … but a balti it wasn’t (although I subsequently had a chat to the owner and chef about the real deal).

Mind you, fair play to him as the word ‘balti’ is urdhu for bucket and that’s exactly what it was served up in! This was a first for me in terms of presentation … albeit in a small and silver bucket! Incidentally, to finish, their home made pistachio ice cream was the best I’ve ever had. Balti or no balti … would I return? Undoubtedly … great food and really friendly service.